Inclusion, Political and Maturity. Muf10 SS19 show was a success!
The Danish hoodstar brand Muf10 has over the last couple of years gone from being a label spotted only on the Copenhagen night life scene to a brand with a cult following. Now the brand are beginning to access a global reach with retailers for example in Australia, Hong Kong and across Europe.
According to Reza Etamadi (the designer) MUF10 has been founded on the values of inclusion. Reza and his crew of musicians and film makers always seek to help out each other. Among this crew are for example the rapper Sivas, filmmaker Fenar Ahmad and actor Ali Sivandi, who closed the show wearing a black tracksuit and gold chains.
At the beginning of the show a narrative was established by showing an iconic picture of an immigrant girl and a Danish police officer playing peak-a-boo. This was followed by three women dressed in niqab entering the left side of the runway, and police officers on the right side. A clear reference to recent Danish legislation that bans covering the face such as wearing a niqab or burqa. In the middle was two youngsters cuffed sitting next to what looked like a memorial flower arrangement. At first the models walked to a rendition of Lennon’s “Imagine”, which then transcended into Dodo and the Dodo’s Vågner I natten (waking in the night), a Danish song treasure. At the end of the show, the police officers handed the women a bouquet of flowers and a hug, rather than arresting/fining them according to the legislation. Etamadi explains that “no man should decide what a woman should wear”. This means that this isn’t about religion, but rather about allowing women’s rights, and allowing them to dress as they want.
About the collection itself, it had a much more continuous flow than the previous collections. Where as the previous collections seemed to focus on individual showpieces, this collection was much more commercial and mature while staying true to Muf10’s Nørrebro night life and street roots. It really seems like Muf10 is about to find it’s design standpoint. Even further, it was by far the biggest collection that the brand has presented. A range of hoodies, oversized t-shirts and tracksuits was a dominating factor of the show. They were simple measures, but provided a consistency in key with the brand.
The majority of the pieces contained some sort of print, either logo, graphic or both. While the logo is quite self-explanatory some of the graphic prints was done with references to pop-culture. One piece (shown right above) that in particular caught my eye was a altered version of a Times magazine cover of Bill Cosby from 1987, where the logo of People magazine and Life Magazine was also added. Cosby’s 50th birthday and success was the cover story for that particular edition. The ‘1997’ that is printed beside the cover I guess refers to the year that Cosby’s son was shot and killed, which gained him a whole lot of sympathy. Last but not least, beneath is quoted “I feel like I’m dreaming… I feel like my faith in humanity is restored”. This is a direct quote from Lili Bernard, a woman that has been sexually molested by Cosby. The quote stems from shortly after Cosby was found guilty in long line of sexual assaults. What does this mean? Most likely that even the most likeable and reliable rolemodels have a dark side. We might love them for their appearance, while having no clue about the harm they may have caused. Whether it’s down talked or simply unknown. Its a great contribution to the political statements about women’s rights.