Kim Jones’ last Louis Vuitton Collection – MEN’S AW18 SHOW REVIEW
KIM JONES’ LAST LOUIS VUITTON COLLECTION
On January 16th Kim Jones announced on Instagram his departure from the Parisian fashion house Louis Vuitton. Today’s show then marks the end of Jones’ 7 year long tenure as artistic director of menswear. While many are shocked to see Kim Jones leave the realm of Louise Vuitton, then I won’t say that I am. I’m definitely surprised, but not shocked. You see already earlier this year he teased in an interview that he would somewhere in the near future resign from fashion design, to focus on other parts of design.
Okay lets get down to business, Kim Jones’ last Louis Vuitton collection (AW18) was presented yesterday. I feel that what best can describe the majority of the collection would be technical army sportswear put into an everyday wardrobe. Most of the collection focused on technical fabrics and sported printed running tights worn underneath shorts. We’re definitely in a mindset where fashion meets functionality!
These sporty technical fabrics were not the only focus. We also saw an usage of what seems to be glazed leather. This was used for topcoats, “denim” jackets and trousers. The head of the nail was when Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss guested the menswear runway in an glazed monogrammed trench coats. Also we saw a few East Asian references – namely cherry blossom prints, mao collars on suit jackets and use fine silk for coats, shirts and bottoms. This was also highlighted by subtle details such as closing mechanisms on a few jackets. When it comes to bottoms, it’s certain that unless you wear running tights, then you should opt for tailored dress pants. At least according to this runway show
The color scheme was primarily dark and seemed to a large extent to be inspired by a roaring nature; namely stone and water. This tones were sometimes paired with a pop of neon. Some of the dark fabrics also contained a certain shine creating some silk like reflections in the light.
The last thing that I want to comment on is the footwear. Almost every single model wore functional combat boots. Real chunky! This goes well with that whole chunky footwear trend that we currently see. And they seemed even bigger, as they were often wore worn with tights. The ones who didn’t wear boots, wore of course sneakers. Again not slim and lean.
Personally, did I like the collection? Well I honestly think that there were some cool pieces in between (my favourites being a leather “denim” jacket with cherry blossom print and a coat with brown and blue ), but I think the the collection was too sporty. To me, the usage of running tights (that was already introduced in the SS18 collection) kinda just went too far. Because of the extensive usage, then it just ended being more as a gimmick, than actual show pieces. I’m all down with having sporty and military references, but I think that he could have spent a little more effort on maintaining some of the Parisian chicness that he is so good at creating.
Note. To be fair, having watched the show a second time today, I have softened a bit more. I definitely see some of the qualities of the collection, but I’m still not swooned.
Watch Kim Jones’ last Louis Vuitton collection (video) HERE and judge for yourself.
Goodbye Kim Jones. You did a great job making Louis Vuitton what it is today!
Did you like Kim Jones’ last Louis Vuitton collection?
Portrait De L’HOMME
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