Let's talk Fashion Week: Highlights and Low Points OF CPHFW FW 2018 - Portrait De L'HOMME
Sunnei Fall Winter 2018 Show Review

Let’s talk Fashion Week: Highlights and Low Points OF CPHFW FW 2018

CPHFW FW 2018

While fashion weeks are always great fun! Then the CPHFW FW 2018 had sort of an off vibe to it. Most of it had to be with the locations being scattered all over town with no way that you can actually get there in time. This created sort of a off vibe, at least to me and the ones that I talked to during the week. With that being one of the biggest downer, then lets look at the positive elements of this week.

Designers’ Nest

This annual show celebrates the young and upcoming talents from prominent design school around Scandinavia. The designers are carefully selected competing for a cash prize of 50.000 Danish kroner. And while the show is almost always filled with avantgarde pieces then the winner was (for once) much more – as the jury tells it – an anti fashion statement. With a focus on the functionality and wearability then Axel Enqvist was agreeable the right winner.

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J. Lindeberg

Genuinely pretty clothes, but unfortunately Jens Werner’s inspirations was a little too obvious. There were designs that were a little too “inspired” by some of the most relevant designers; namely Demna Gvasalia (Balenciaga, Vetements) and Raf Simons (own brand, and the Calvin Klein 205W39NYC). But then again, are the collection aimed at the first movers? With J. Lindeberg heritage then I’m not so sure. So reacting to current trends (rather than being progressive) may be okay for this brand. But then again, there is a difference between adapting to trends and to almost copy designs.

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Martin Asbjørn “Teenage Dirtbag”

Martin Asbjørn is for sure one of my favourite Danish menswear designers. With a layered and messy, yet very detail oriented aesthetic then he delivered what definitely was my favourite show during the CPHFW FW 2018. The show was entitled “Teenage Dirtbag” and you can find my show review HERE.

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MFPEN

Sigurd Bank’s universe MFPEN is somewhat ordinary, but in the best possible way! His aesthetic embraces the minimalistic loose boxy fits and was dominated by classic tones such as stone, grey and navy. Both parameters that Bank do very well. The collection had several references to the 80’s fit, but was brought into an up-to-date styling. In general the pieces are not in any way avantgarde, but just pieces that you would pull off the model and wear straight away.

The setting for the show unconventionally placed in an emptied out restaurant, with a construction of tossed chairs as backdrop. The people was gathered in front of the “stage” and then the models had to squish in between the guests to access the stage. In general I like the idea of challenging the whole idea of whether you in fact need a catwalk.

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Han Kjøbenhavn

Han Kjøbenhavn is known for their theatrical elements of their show. This time the show was titled “Imperfect Sanity”. We were brought into what should look like an mental asylum. A setting where unproportioned details becomes suiting. Deconstruction was a major part of the collection, and as something rather new then the chunks of fur used in this. The color scheme was very typical Han Kjøbenhavn – dark and with a sense of nauseasness to it. In a good way.

While there were several pieces that I though was super cool, then I am left with a wondering of what will actually be brought into production. Personally thea vinyl coat, a long wool coat with an unproportioned lapel (one lapel being VERY peaky) and some deconstructed  jeans/chino combos were my favourites, but whether they will hit the stores is left for one to wait and see.

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Holzweiler

AND NOW HERE IS A BUMMER! Due to the horde of people attending the Han Kjøbenhavn show, then I didn’t make it out to the press bus in time. This meant I had to take public transport to get there, but no way I could get there in time! Norwegian brand Holzweiler seems to be rushing forward! And with good reason. The typical scandinavian minimalism is combined with sporty and edgy elements and cool tailored fabrics. The quality of the products are genuinely high!

Cannot stress how bummed I am about missing this!

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SUNNEI

Much like MFPEN did the young Italian brand Sunnei challenge the conventional idea of a runway show. Instead walking cat walks, treadmills were set up surrounded by heavy lighting. You can read my full review HERE.

SUNNEI FALL WINTER 2018

HELIOT EMIL

The two Danish brothers Julius & Victor Juul have over the last couple of years been able to establish a brand that have been worn by Kendrick Lamar and fashion killah no. 1: A$AP Rocky. The show took place in an underground parking space (very fitting for their aesthetics and hands down best location during the CPHFW FW 2018). The designs seemed to be focused on rethinking the construction of the garments (without being too over the edge). Themselves they describe it as featuring a scandinavian monochromatic aesthetic.

The only downside was that I wasn’t able to see the entire show. Because of delays from the previous show then it seemed that the press bus wouldn’t make, which means that it at some point just decided that they wouldn’t even try (I mean WTF!?). This resulted in Michael Schmidt (Dansk Mode) myself and a couple of others rebelled and basically just ran the remaining distance. We just made it to there halfway through the show.

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WHAT I WORE

DAY 1

Aiming for a Parisian vibe I wore a Sand Copenhagen overcoat, Ralph Lauren Oxford shirt, roll neck from Zara, wide trousers from swedish Our Legacy, Hermès sneakers and jewellery from the startup Hentze.

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DAY 2

As day 2 contained the Martin Asbjørn show then I was honoured to be able to wear some of his pieces for his show. This means that the outfit is build around the trench and the double breast jacket. So yeah, the trench & blazer is from Martin Asbjørn, hoodie from 66 North, trousers from David Naman, Boots from Lædersmeden, tote from Études, sunglasses from Dior and rings from Hentze and Double U Frenk.

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DAY 3

CPHFW FW 2018 Day 2 was super busy for me, for that reason it was important for me to wear something a little more relaxed the next day. Shearling from Samsø Samsø, shirt and trousers from Legends, roll neck from Zara, sneakers from Ami Paris, sunglasses from Komono, rings from Hentze (yeah! Wearing these a lot!) and Asos, and lastly the backpack is from Coach.

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THANK YOU FOR READING ALONG – I KNOW THAT THIS WAS VERY LONG!

Best Regards,

Jon
Portrait De L’HOMME

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