Highlights from Paris Fashion Week Mens Spring 2019
The Parisian mens fashion week ended just a few days ago, and if I were ever to attend a PFWM, this would have been the one. High profile designers involved in the big designer shuffle had to prove that they were in fact the right choice for their new maison! While others had to fight to stay relevant.
Trend highlights of the Paris Fashion Week Mens spring 2019:
First of all, it’s nice to see that the presenting brands kept their focus on the suiting, but still challenged its applicability. This was done both in sense of the cutting, but also in terms of styling. Deconstruction and reconstruction were very still very much on the menu. The Spring 2019 collections streetwear elements were much more dominated by fashionable track suits (worn with layers) opposed to the hoodie stylings that are often the essence of streetwear.
One of the shows that I was looking forward to the most of the male edition Paris fashion week was Dior Homme. The reason is that over the last couple of years I have followed the brand, and have been a big admirer of the dark universe that Kris Van Assche brought to the brand. However, following the big designer shuffle, it is now former Louis Vuitton menswear designer, Kim Jones, taken over the creative direction of the prestigious Parisian maison. And a new direction it is indeed! Pretty much a full 180! Where Van Assche provides a cool dystopia like aesthetic, Jones deliver light delicate color palette and see thru pieces. All in all, a very admirable life affirming collection where I’d personally wear 9/10 pieces! I’m only passing on the see thru monogrammed t-shirts. Mainly because they remind me too much of the Dolce & Gabbana underwear, which all the girls from my neighbourhood wore from 2003-2006.
Ohh, and if you haven’t already heard, Danish Prince Nikolaj opened the runway with a show stopper of a suit! Most likely my favourite look of the entire collection.
AMI Alexandre Mattiussi
AMI is a brand that every damn man should get familiar with! I cannot underline this enough. Season after season Alexandre Mattiussi delivers the most wearable collections, while remaining relevant as ever. The show collection here offers a bit more contemporary stylings, while the pieces in themselves can be worn straight off the runway. The understated Parisian aesthetics live through the garments.
1017 Alyx 9SM
Despite having only existed for four years, 1017 Alyx 9SM (formerly known as Alyx) has found its way onto the prestigious show calendar of Paris Fashion Week Mens. The collection provided both perfectly placed belted details, strapped bags, suits and python like print.
When people are thinking Hermès they’re likely not thinking their fashion collections. More likely, they are thinking Birkin bags and the fuck boi H buckle belt. However, the collection is a nonchalance style lesson to be learned.
It seems that since the creative duo Pierre Paolo and Maria Grazia split (Marie Grazia left Valentino to design for Dior), Paolo has needed some time to really settle in the mono-designer role. And he is definitely getting there now. Despite the collection bearing some resemblances to the Converse x J.W. Anderson collection it still added a new dimension to the brand.
Japanese Sacai were among one of the collections that stood out because of its originality. In an industry where there are soooooo many rip offs its wonderful with original ideas. In fact, to really understand how the rip offs of the industry, even among respected high fashion brands, go follow Diet Prada on Instagram here.
In regards to the collection, the imperfection that drove Chitose Abe really comes to show. It becomes somewhat human, without the all too perfect cuts.
Louis Vuitton was perhaps the most hyped and anticipated show on the schedule. On the helm stood Virgil Abloh, the current king of collaborations, and owner of luxury streetwear label Off-White. Aside from this he is the former creative director and long time buddy of Kanye West. In fact, Abloh expressed that in the perfect world Kanye would be walking the runway. Instead Abloh had to settle with a very intimate hug and tears from longtime buddy Kanye as he took his bow on the runway at the end of the show. Among the top male models could also be found Kid Cudi, Playboy Carti and Blondey McCoy and more. This just shows Abloh’s ability to think across metiers and challenge an industry that at the end of the day hasn’t moved much forward.
The collection was a great manifestation of European fashion meeting Abloh’s aesthetics. Despite what many might have expected, there were only few signs of Off-White-esque pieces. And for that I’m glad! Would be a shame if LV turned into yet another streetwear label. Nonetheless, the oversized suits and clean surfaces looked crisp, and the Abloh manifested himself as a bright future for the Parisian maison.
I mentioned earlier Diet Prada. In fact, Diet Prada has not been as keen on the collection as the rest of the industry. In fact, they claim that many of the key pieces are too similar to other designs to be applauded. I’m not to judge, but I think they have an important voice in today’s fashion industry!
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