What I really feel about Jacquemus’ menswear debut
I’ve been holding back with this show review as I had to come to terms with my mind. I had looked so much forward to Jacquemus’ debut menswear collection, but I must say that this was not what I expected it to be. Since 2009 has Simon Porte Jacquemus designed breathtaking womenswear pieces, so what he announced to launch a menswear line I was ecstatic! Mainly because I was expecting an universe that was somewhat equivalent to his womenswear designs. However, that was far from what he presented.
The collection presented was a mix of beach hunks in speedos (that in my opinion have no place on a runway), tucked in oversized shirts and knitted ties. In genereal, very far from the flared, draped and complex pieces that he creates for his womenswear line. To be fair, I’m a little disappointed. Not that it is a bad collection. There were a lot of cool pieces (especially shirts and pants). However, this launch was in my opinion an opportunity to really shake up things when it comes to menswear. Had he been able to translate his aesthetics from womenswear into a menswear collection, then I think he’d have reached a much higher potential. Instead he chose to introduce the Gadjo, which by Vogue is described as “a hunky outsider archetype from the south whose wardrobe spans knit tanks and teensy bathing briefs to airy suit jackets and shorts”.
Read also: Highlights from Paris Fashion Week Mens
Simon Porte Jacquemus explained in an interview that the collection is very much inspired by an important relationship in his life. This could explain why the men’s universe is so far from the women’s universe. Furthermore, the collection will be priced at about half of the womenswear collection. While it might sound as a good idea, it also draws in another crowd. Still, its not because the garments will be cheap.
Last but not least, some of the collection are to drop at SSENSE quite soon.
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