Uniformed without wearing a suit
While wearing a suit is the closest that a civilian man gets to an official uniform, then it can often feel a little rigid. Of course it depends on your work environment, but if you’re in an setting where you have to move around during the day then it can become a real struggle. I mean one thing is sitting in a meeting, another is having to move stuff around or get in weird positions (I know this from taking tons of pictures!). However, you can still achieve to be uniformed without wearing a suit.
Suits are in general very conventional. Both in their shapes, but also in the common perception of a suits purpose. One of these purposes are formality, another is to create a uniform like attire. You could say they are two sides of the same coin, but they are in fact different. A uniformed look do not need to be (that) formal. I would often myself jump in a pair of tailored flannel trousers and a jacket that has more of a workwear or military vibe to it. It creates much more of a low key ‘suited’ appearance.
Usually you say that you should never break up a suit. This means that the top and bottom should never be worn with anything else but their respective other. The reason is that having two rather similar fabrics, that is not quite the same, can create an uncomfortable dissonance. Quite like hearing someone sing juuuust off pitch. However, when you work with pieces that are not exactly suit pieces then you can more easily bend the rules. Nonetheless, though they are guidelines rather than rules, then I two options that would advice to conform to in order to achieve this uniformed suit like look.
Either, find two pieces that match perfect (or very very very very close) or find two pieces with significantly different shades of the same color. Think a light grey and dark grey. A third option, which require finesse, is to go with a two different colors, but this time, be very conscious of the materials that you choose and preferably go with two pieces of the same fabric. Common for these rules are that you still want to keep that two piece vibe, even though they are not at all related.
Personally, I wore a wool jacket with utility pockets from Peak Performance over a sweatshirt from Les Deux and flannel trousers from Selected Homme. The pockets on the jacket creates a real cool military reference that is perfectly aligned with the idea of a uniform. The shade of the jacket and the trousers are coming very very close, and even closer in real life, despite the different fabrics. The sweatshirt gives the outfit a lowkey vibe and allows it to transcend both from a casual workplace leisure attire. Lastly, a pair of sturdy Dr Martens 1460’s underlines the military references and gives the outfit a bit of grunge to it. With the coherent shades of grey and military references the outfit managed to be uniformed without wearing a suit.
The location used for this shoot was Statens Musuem for Kunst (National Gallery of Denmark), and the whole reason for going there was pretty much to try out their new ‘Kafeteria’ with Michael Schmidt (DanskMode) and Astrid, and boy were those croissants amazing!
Shop a ‘uniformed without wearing a suit’ look.
While my outfit is based on sturdy warm wool, then I’ve found a look that is very similar (even sweatshirt and boots are the same) but may be more appropriate for the spring.
Similar jacket with utility pockets HERE. The same sweatshirt HERE. Similar trousers HERE. The same boots HERE or similar shoes that are appropriate for spring HERE. The same jewellery HERE. The same sunglasses HERE.
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